The Rush of the Rapids
I landed in Costa Rica with one goal: conquer the Pacuare River. It’s a legend—Class III and IV rapids, carved through lush rainforest, with toucans and monkeys cheering you on (or so it feels). My trip started in San José, where I joined a small group tour—six of us, plus a guide who knew the river like his backyard. Day one, we’re at the put-in, staring at churning water. I’m nervous, my hands sweaty on the paddle, but our guide’s briefing—paddle hard, lean in, don’t panic—grounds me.
The first rapid, called “Terciopelo” after a viper, hits like a freight train. We’re shouting, paddling like mad, bouncing over waves. I nearly fell out but laughed through the chaos. The Pacuare’s no joke—rapids come fast, with names like “Upper Huacas” and “Cimarrones” that sound as fierce as they feel. Between rapids, we floated through calm stretches, gawking at waterfalls spilling from cliffs and sloths chilling in cecropia trees. One moment, you’re battling whitewater; the next, you’re drifting, soaking in jungle sounds. It’s a high you can’t fake.
Unwinding in Hidden Hot Springs
After a full day of rafting, muscles aching, we pulled ashore at a riverside lodge. That’s when the magic shifted gears. Our guide led us on a short hike—muddy boots, humidity thick—through dense forest to a series of natural hot springs. These weren’t touristy pools; they were raw, tucked beside the river, with steam rising from rocks. I sank in, the warm water easing every knot in my shoulders. Above, the canopy blocked out everything but slivers of sky. No phones, no noise—just us, the water, and the hum of cicadas. One night, we stayed late, stars popping out, and it felt like the jungle was whispering secrets.
Group Tours: Finding the Right Fit
Going solo was tempting, but a group tour made sense for a newbie like me. Here’s the deal on picking one:
Small Groups Rule: Our group of six was perfect—tight-knit, no chaos. Bigger groups can feel rushed or impersonal. Look for tours capped at 8-12 people.
Check the Guides: Our guide was certified, with years on the Pacuare, and it showed—he read the river like a book. Make sure your operator hires trained pros with first-aid skills.
Inclusions Matter: My tour covered transport from San José, gear (helmet, life jacket, paddle), meals, and the lodge stay. Some even include hot spring visits. Double-check what’s included to avoid surprises.
Cost: Expect $100-$200 per person for a two-day trip, depending on perks like lodging or side hikes. Book early for peak season (December-April, the dry season).
One slip-up? I didn’t ask about the lodge amenities and ended up without a towel for the springs—bring your own. Also, check if your tour includes a photographer; ours did, and those action shots were gold.
Eco-Friendly Practices
Costa Rica’s all about “pura vida,” and that includes keeping its rivers pristine. Rafting’s low-impact, but you gotta do it right:
Leave No Trace: Pack out all trash, even food scraps. Our group used reusable containers for meals, which cut waste.
Support Local: Choose operators that employ local guides and source food from nearby communities. Our lunches—gallo pinto, fresh pineapple—came from a village nearby, boosting their economy.
Respect Wildlife: No chasing monkeys for photos or tossing snacks to birds. Our guide stressed keeping a distance to avoid stressing animals.
Eco Gear: Some operators use biodegradable soaps for camp cleanups. Ask about their environmental policies before booking.
I messed up once by tossing a banana peel, thinking it’d decompose. Nope—guides said it attracts critters and disrupts the ecosystem. Lesson learned: pack it out.
Gear and Prep Tips
Here’s what you need to thrive:
Quick-Dry Clothes: Water wicks fast, and you’ll be soaked. I wore a rash guard and board shorts; avoid cotton—it stays wet.
Water Shoes: Closed-toe with grip, not flip-flops. I saw someone lose a sandal mid-rapid—chaos.
Dry Bag: For your phone, camera, or spare clothes. Mine was a 10L bag, clipped to the raft.
Sunscreen and Hat: Jungle sun’s intense, even through clouds. Reapply after rapids.
Light Towel: For hot springs or post-raft drying. Microfiber’s best—compact and quick-drying.
Bug Spray: Mosquitoes love the jungle. I forgot mine and paid with itchy bites.
Pro tip: Pack light. You’re in and out of rafts, so extra stuff’s a hassle. I overpacked snacks, and they just got soggy.
